K2 App Disconnects From Device Every 10 seconds Bad Controller?

I tried resetting the device through the app, and it has been telling me "Hold on 30 seconds left..." for at least 15 minutes now. I bought a new charger, thinking that maybe it was something with that, but it still disconnects and re-syncs every 10 seconds. However, I haven't gotten that disconnection message when it was resetting.

As my experience that you can change a keyboard mouse likely gaming K/M could be better

That's true. I'm trying to be cheap, but when I unplugged the keyboard and mouse, it still kept disconnecting every 10 seconds when the app was trying to connect to the device. I'm going to borrow another phone as a test, but I'm not going to spend any more money just to test a device. It was my understanding that this would work with Android phones.

I did call the number on the instructions for help, but I got somebody's answering machine and left a message last week. I never received a call back.

I bought a new charger, keyboard, and mouse and am still having the same problem as I did with my old CompUSA keyboard and mouse.

The following is the text I sent to the email at support@iogear.com. There are also some additional details, because I didn't realize that the keyboard worked - I just can't bind any keys through the app. Additionally, I don't know how to get the app to recognize any custom profiles I create - so just keep that in mind.

When setting up the Keymander 2 through the K2 App, it re-syncs(disconnects and reconnects) every 10 seconds. I am using a Galaxy A01 phone with Android updated to A015VVRU4AUD3 and it is the most recent update since May 21st. Location is turned on as well as Bluetooth when I am using the Keymander 2.  

These are the steps I take to reproduce the issue:

1. Plug in my Corsair K55 RGB Pro keyboard into the Keyboard slot.

2. Plug in my SteelSeries Rival 3 mouse into the mouse slot.

3. Connect the Keymander2 to the PS4 Console via USB.

4. Turn on the PS4.

5. Plug in the extra power needed from the 3.4 Amp iphone usb plug to the keymander.

6. When the PS4 prompts me asking who is using the controller, I hit x on the controller so I can go to the main menu on my PS4.

At this point, I can use the directional keys on the keyboard as well as the enter button, which seems to be bound to x on the controller by default. However, when I use the K2 app to rebind the keys, I can connect to the device from my phone, and even get into the Keymapping menu on the default PS4 game profile, but binding keys don't work.

What this means is when I go to change the binding for the x button to Right Control, for example, the app says "Listening..." and then that's usually as fast as I can go until it disconnects and has to re-sync - throwing me back to the main menu where I have to start all over. However, when I can do it fast enough, during the prompt where it is accepting what to bind the x button to from the keyboard, it won't accept any input from the keyboard so that the app picks it up.  

I work during the hours of your operation, and I also work Saturday, so I decided to post on the forum thinking I would get some response, but I don't think too many people check it regularly or they're just not responding - check this thread "K2 App Disconnects From Device Every 10 seconds Bad Controller?" The only day I can troubleshoot this device is on Sunday. I did leave a message for somebody, I wish I could remember who, but they never contacted me back.  

I am going to post the text in this email on the forum just to document it, because I really don't know what to do.

Hi AppleBrother,

I'm sorry I missed your first post as I normally see them before anyone else.

First, the reason your keyboard only worked with K1 using the arrow keys is that your controller was not recognized as connected through the K1. You may need to change the micro USB cable attached to your controller as it seems data is not passing through. This almost certainly part of your problem with the K2 if using the same cable. The K2 came with a good micro USB cable so if you are not already using it, please switch to it and see if that solves the issue.

Next, as for the app issues we first need to make sure your K2 is updated to the most recent firmware as one of our older firmware versions had problems with certain Android devices and could explain your issue with connection. Please let us know the current firmware shown in your K2 app when you click the settings icon in the upper right corner on the Device tab.

Please send me a message with your contact info and either I or one of our people can walk you through over the phone as well. We don't work weekends here, but I can reach out to you after hours if needed or perhaps make other arrangements.

The firmware version is 1.2.116.005 and the app version is 1.1.107. I was able to update the firmware, but that seemed to be a miracle, because I switched my phone to connect to my wireless network. I was able to stay connected to the device long enough to update it and bind the keys!

However, when I went to test this out, it worked intermittently afterwards. For example, I was able to use my custom keybindings for a few seconds, then the PS4 would display a message saying the controller was disconnected and I wasn't able to do anything - neither from the controller or the keyboard. At that point, I pressed and held the PS4 button, and was able to use the controller, but not the keyboard. After a few seconds, the PS4 would prompt me saying "Who is using this controller", and then I could press Right Ctrl on the keyboard (which I bound to x), then I could use the keyboard for a few seconds - all of this would repeat.

As to your suggestion using the micro usb cable, I was using the cable that came with the Keymander2. However, I wanted to be absolutely sure I didn't get a bad cable and bought a PS4 USB 2.0 Charging Cable. The above behavior repeated regardless.

Just in case there was a power issue, I bypassed the surge protector I was using and plugged a Belkin 24 Watt Power Adapter directly into the wall and it says "Output USB1.5V=2.4A" and below it "Output 2.5V=2.4A" on the side - that didn't make any sense to me(I looked at the side of the adapter after it didn't work with it), so I switched to a BlackWeb USB Power Adapter which had "Output:5V 3.4ATotal" and plugged the USB plug into the Tablet USB slot on that adapter and still had the same thing happen.

I still haven't ruled out an issue with the power. Certain micro USB cords I use for extra power for the device, flat out don't work and at least one of them caused the App to display an insufficient power message in red at the top(I have four of these things). For the controller to connect and disconnect and the keyboard to work fine for 3 or 4 seconds before it stops, and now currently, the re-sync problem on the app is happening just like it was before, means to me that power may still be an issue. By the way, I also unplugged the keyboard and mouse, just to see if the device would stay connected to the app, but the resync issue kept happening there too despite it working well enough to update the firmware version with both of those devices connected.

I'm throwing my hands up. I've tried everything I could think of.

I have been trying to replicate your issues, but I haven't found one thing that causes ALL of these issues. That said, there's a few things in your description that lead me to believe this is a communication issue with the controller, so we will need to troubleshoot possible causes one at a time.

1. I'm don't want to make assumptions so let's just start with the very first thing. Did you make sure the PS4 was set to USB communication as noted here?
2. "bought a PS4 USB 2.0 Charging Cable" unfortunately cables marketing as "Charging Cables" usually don't have the data wire inside that allows actual USB communication. If you have an Android phone, test the cable by plugging into your computer and see if you can sync data between your phone and PC. If so, then your cable is fine.
3. Do you have another PS4 controller? I have personally experienced an issue with older PS4 controllers that have an aging battery inside. With these controllers the internal battery resistance is so high that while it will still charge by direct connection to a PS4 console, when connected through the K2 it will cause too much current draw and either create disconnection issues, low power (orange LED on K2) warnings, or both.
4. Can you look at the bottom label on your PS4 controller and give us the model number?
5. This one is normally a problem with XB1 units but it's worth testing. Please move the K2 USB connection to a different port. It should be on the rear port, but if it is currently on the rear, try the front and see if anything changes. I have seen a bad USB port on one of our old original PS4 units, but it is MUCH more common on XB1.
6. Lastly, the order in which external power is connected makes a difference. I know it sounds odd, but the way the system powers up determines were it draws current, so if you plug in external power after the system has already experienced a low power issue, it will NOT fix it.

1. That option doesn't exist on my PS4 - Volume Control, Enable Vibration, and Brightness of Dualshock 4 light bar exists but not Communication Method.
2. All of my cables are able to do just this. I tried every cable I had with the new controller, and the Corsair Keyboard still randomly worked, and the controller randomly disconnected when the PS4 was powered on and I was in the main menu.
3. When I used the new controller, I still kept getting re-syncs on the app. I used the cable that came with the device, the IPhone usb 24 Watt Power adapter plugged into the same surge protector as my TV and PS4. The keyboard lights were not on and neither was the mouse. I then unplugged the adapter and plugged the Micro USB cord directly into the 5V2.4A usb slot on the surge protector into the Power slot on the Keymander 2. The lights on the mouse flickered but never stayed on. I then unplugged the mouse and my keyboard lights lit up and stayed on and the resyncs stopped!!! I was able to map the keys on the keyboard. The keyboard and mouse combo was different than the ones I mentioned above to produce this behavior. When I powered on the Keymander 2, and not the PS4 again like mentioned above, I just plugged in the Corsair K55 RGB Pro keyboard and not the mouse and DID NOT get the resync problem once again. This appears to be a power problem with my old mouse and the power adapter? Unfortunately, when I powered on my PS4, this is when it all falls apart, the keyboard functions intermittently, and the PS4 repeatedly says "Controller disconnected".
4. The old PS4 controller is a Gen 1. I got it with the PS4 as soon as it came out either in 2013 or 2014. It doesn't have a model number anywhere on the controller. The new one I have has a model number OS-7845 and says "Old Skool".
5. I do not have a rear USB port on my PS4. I only have front USB ports. I did try it on the other USB port, but still got the same behavior.
6. When I turned the PS4 on for the final tests, I did not have the external power cable plugged in until after I powered on the PS4 and still received the same behavior.

At least the resync issues with the app stopped when I ditched the power adapter, but my controller randomly disconnects and my keyboard randomly works when I power on the PS4 - I haven't tried the mouse yet.

As a side note of interest:

It is extremely difficult to find a PS4 controller in retail stores which surprised me. I spent a good chunk of the day going to Best Buy, Target and at least 3 different Wal-Marts. One of the Gamestops told me "it takes a long time to make" when I asked him why they were sold out everywhere, and one clerk from Target and another from Wal-Mart both said something else - "Every time they get a shipment in, they're all sold out either that same day or the next". I suspect these controllers are being targeted by scalpers but I'm not sure. I managed to get my new one from a Mom and Pop shop.

Ok, I see two main problems here:

1. Communication Method is part of every PS4 console firmware with the current CUH-ZCT2 controller, however you have the older Gen. 1 controller which is the problem. You must have a Gen. 2 controller or the K2 cannot communicate to your PS4.
2. Your controller is old enough that the internal battery has a very high resistance and is causing the current draw on the K2 (with accessories connected) to surpass the maximum output. You will likely find that replacing the controller to the Gen. 2 which is required, will also fix this problem.

I've sent you a message with a link to an unlisted youtube video, dhamilton and Alexrock1102. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about, because going back over what I posted and looking at the video, it's not easy to describe what I'm seeing.

I am using a new controller, and periodically, I would get a message saying the controller disconnected, and for 1 to 5 seconds after that message, I can use the controller and the keyboard, then I wouldn't be able to use either at all for about 15 seconds. The cycle will then repeat. The before-mentioned behavior is the same with the old Gen 1 controller as well.

In your video I can see your K2 unit is losing handshake and essentially rebooting continuously. This normally happens when there is insufficient power available to power up the unit and accessories attached, but can also happen if a handshake continuously fails. Both of those potential issues can happen with a gen 1 controller. If that is a gen 1 controller in the video, you will need to change to a gen 2 or test out a friend's gen 2 controller to confirm, but make sure it is fully charged before connecting it to the K2. It should solve the problem.

I was able to test it with another controller yesterday and it worked just fine with it. I used a Razer Raion Fightpad and that was because I didn't know what else to do. You can play first person shooters with a mouse and keyboard using a fightpad and keymander 2, which I was surprised by because a fightpad has those switches on the bottom that allow you to change what analog stick to bind to the dpad (I guess that's what they're for).

Also, one of the mice I had been using draws too much power and causes the entire thing not to work(it was a more expensive one with lights), so I used a cheap 10 dollar mouse and haven't had that issue. With my setup now, I don't need the extra power from the usb.

I would consider this issue resolved.

Thank you for the update as we have never tested the Razer Raion before. Glad to know everything is working!